Pruning Shrubs and Trees in Mid Summer
For the flowering shrubs, there is not a great deal of pruning during mid-summer, possibly a few left over from late spring and the few that have flowered last season. However, even if a shrub does not need formal pruning every year, it nearly always accumulates dead shoots; just clearing these out completely seems to give many a new lease of life. Anything which flowers or grows poorly, including weak shoots, diseased ones and broken or crowded growth, should be cut off completely to its point of origin.
When the flowers have finished, a little of the oldest growth can be removed, cutting these stems back by about a quarter of their length.
If not dealt with already, this should be pruned early in mid-summer.
These shrubs can have their flowered shoots pruned off as soon as flowering has finished, back to a strong new shoot. Those kinds with long arching shoots can become rather untidy and need this pruning every year; others can be missed occasionally. If grown as wall shrubs, they will need hard cutting to leave only a few centimetres (inches) of the flowered shoot, so that they remain compact.
Kolkwitzia (beauty bush)
Prune off the flowered stems and cut out one or two of the oldest main stems to ground level occasionally, to encourage new growth from the base.
Trim all over with shears towards the end of mid-summer.
Philtulelpluis (mock orange blossom)
Cut the flowered sprays back to strong new growth and thin out some of the new growth if getting too tall or crowded.
If it has been allowed to flower, clip immediately after flowering with shears, to give it plenty of time to renew itself before winter.
Like deutzia and philadelphus, easily pruned by removal of flowered growth as soon as flowering has finished, to allow space for the new shoots already growing.
Summer-pruning of espalier or cordon-trained apples can sometimes be started at the end of mid-summer, if the season is dry, but is normally begun in the first week of late summer. Pear growth matures a little earlier than apples, and does have to be treated late in mid-summer.
The pruning ofsweet grown against walls consists of cutting the new side-shoots back to just above the fifth or sixth leaf in late mid-summer, with further pruning following in early autumn. Leading shoots which were bent over last autumn, should be cut back to a weak side-shoot.
Bush sweet-trees grown in the open need little pruning, beyond removing dead, diseased, broken, crowded or weak shoots and occasional cutting back of the main branches or leaders to keep within bounds. This should be done as soon as the crop is picked.